It seems like the long degustation only concept is slowly dying but here comes Cafe Paci from the ashes of Cafe Pacifico bravely with a degustation only concept. It's convenient that the former tenants of Cafe Pacifico fit nicely with head chef Pasi Petanen's name, so much so that they used the former's sign and simply dimmed the 'fico' part. Pasi Petanen's got credential's to boot, being an ex-chef of three torque Marque with the owner Mark Best being quoted to say he's "the best thing to come out of Finland since Nokia rubber boots". High credentials indeed.
Nothing's quite what you'd expect here. For one, it's all grey. They've got one shade going on and that's pretty much it for the decor. Another is the menu, which reads like a simple ingredients list and nothing else is revealed including preparation method. You won't hear 'pan roasted' and 'in it's own juices'. It says it's a 5 courser but there's all these tiddly bits in between so that it eventually starts to become substantial enough to go to 9 and at 85pp it's an absolute steal.
rye taco |
snacks |
molasses bread and butter |
white salad, juniper |
lamb leg tartare, smoked capsicum, togarashi |
cabbage, mussel butter, marrow, pomelo |
photato |
carrot, yoghurt, liquorice |
malt, banana, parsley |
pork and fennel |
corn and butter |
Many have predicted the inevitable end of the haute cuisine degustation and that shortened casual dining's in. So very in. So I thought. I wouldn't say Cafe Paci has gone the entire casual route per say, more like a Marque but with its pants down. Music going international, not a table cloth in sight, relaxed service and a whimsical take on fancy pants food, this is the real deal, full of clever clever ideas, brimming with technique and a lot of fun.
With food like this, it's hard not to envisage the restaurant developing a legion of loyal followers but the irony exists that it won't last long enough to cater to them. In fact, the restaurant is only open for a year. In the end, you're left wondering what you've just gone through, but you'd definitely go through it all again. And again. And again. But remember, it's only around for a year. Step inside the red doors, enigmatic wonder awaits.
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